|
see here to change the Thermostat see here for Auxiliary Belt and Cam Belt change see here for Gearbox lubrication for the MA Gearbox used on these cars |
![]() |
Engine won't start:
Note: A low battery can cause failure to start as the electronics require at least 10 volts to work properly.
However if turning the ignition key produces no action at all then
1. the brake light switch may be at fault as it is part of the ignition circuit - up underneath the passenger (RHD cars) glove-box
2. some have also found that the starter motor fails when hot but can be OK after it has cooled down.
Note that the drawing is for LHD cars; switch is in same position on RHD cars - up under the passenger side glovebox
Sudden loss of power - limp home mode:
Can be caused by the MAP sensor (manifold air pressure) on the black plastic intake manifold just above the injectors with a clip on brown plug. The connector can also cause problems so check first before changing the sensor.
But for me - a sudden loss of power - limp home mode:
On a journey, the car suddenly went into limp mode, with very limited power, and the MIL light came on. I had to complete the journey - ten miles in all so fingers crossed nothing else (O2 sensors or Cat) have been damaged.
The next morning, the code reader showed three Peugeot Specific codes - P1336 (high misfire on several cylinders); P1337 (ignition cylinder 1 misfire) and P1339 (ignition cylinder 3 misfire)
Suspicion fell upon the coil unit, a known weak point so off with the engine top cover (20 torx) and out with the coil pack (also 20 torx)
A very good "how-to" here that I only saw after doing this simple job.
Once removed, it was found that ALL plugs (Bosch Super FR8SEO) were very worn and gaps were around the 54thou mark (should be 30thou). Peugeot only recommend they be changed at the 40,000miles service - these didn't make it by 8,000 miles!
All the above codes were cleared the next day and the engine is now behaving faultlessly, with no further codes
Peugeot Intermediate Service:
Check and top-up - Engine Oil; Brake Fluid; Coolant; Screenwash. Visual check of whole vehicle; Checklist to Customer.
I wonder how much all THAT cost?
No checking of filters, oil change or plugs. After severe misfiring, I discovered that all the plug gaps had opened up to 54thou - all filters were dirty and I have my doubts about the oil which smelt funny and was rather black.
Done them all now, just a very basic service in my opinion but I dread to think how bad they might have been in another 8,000 miles!
Erratic or fast tickover:
Could be because the throttle body is stuck - or is not matched to the accelerator pedal potentiometer:
Switch ignition switch off then on for 15 sec or until a ''wheezing'' type noise stops.
Switch off for 15 sec then depress accelerator fully and the switch on ignition for 15 sec then off again. Do NOT start the engine.
If done correctly the pedal and the throttle should be matched.
Changing the Oil filter:
This is a fairly straightforward task once you appreciate that you will need a large socket spanner to fit on the head of the filter canister.
Lift the bonnet; the filter is inside the black canister down low between the front panel and the engine just to the right of the exhaust manifold. Needs a large socket (27mm) to undo the top nut - then the cover comes off and the filter is inside; my filter came out with the cover. Clean the cover and fit new sealing ring.
Drop the new filter in - replace the cover - don't overtighten!
Don't forget to replace the sump plug washer as it has a special rubber sealing ring to prevent drips
Make sure the engine has the fresh oil in. It takes 3.25 litres of 5W/40 fully synthetic oil, never cheap oil. Or only 3 litres if the filter isn't changed at the same time.
Start the engine; don't rev until the light goes out (about two seconds). Stop the engine and recheck the level as some will have gone into the filter.
Check underneath for any drips - if none then job done!
Changing the Air filter:
This is a fairly straightforward task once you appreciate that the assembly comes out in one piece and then has to be taken apart to fit the filter.
Disconnect the air supply and delivery pipes:
1. Ventilation pipe; push the yellow clip in to release and remove the pipe.
2. Loosen the large circlip around the air outlet pipe to the inlet manifold.
3. Air inlet - rotate the right angled connector to disconnect from the bottom of the air filter housing.
4. Turn and release locking screw and jiggle air cleaner assembly out.
Remove 5 cross-point headed screws and replace filter.
The new air filter is much cleaner than the old one was - it had probably done 32,000 miles from new as Peugeot only expect to change them every 40,000 miles.
Resetting the Service Indicator
hold in the tripmeter reset button and then turn ignition on and keep it holding in for at least 15 seconds
Antifreeze
I lost some of the water/antifreeze when I replaced the thermostat and replaced it by soft water from the tap. When I checked the (original) antifreeze was green in colour; the top-up I got from the Peugeot dealer was red so I didn't use it. When I checked I still had about 40% green antifreeze so should be OK for where I live in the UK.
However I found this statement on this website
Toyota uses a red antifreeze in many of its products and should not be confused with the orange type long life antifreezes. It is essentially the green type of antifreeze that contains red dye to give it the red colour.
The Peugeot Stores operative confirmed this was correct and to top up with the red as supplied.
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |